Tips for making S8 look more "pro"

[JIM DUNN]

For everything you always wanted to know about light meters and Super 8 film, but were afraid to ask, go to http://super8film.tripod.com/production6.htm

[technicolour]

Thanks very much, that helps a lot. [img]graemlins/film.gif[/img]

I shall combine this with my grandfathers sangamo weston V lightmeter and tripod and strive to make better films! [img]wink.gif[/img]

[Matt Pacini]

OK, I'm going to toss in my personal favorites that I've learned the hard way!

1. Always use a tripod or dolly or jib or steadycam, unless you absolutely CANNOT fit one where you're shooting. Nobody thinks it looks cool to handhold and make those shaky shots anymore. In fact, I'd say when you move the camera (or pan/tilt), try to pretend it's a big heavy Panavision that cannot be jerked around like a camcorder. Pretend it's big, heavy, and moves slower and smoother.
This will help greatly.

2. Learn how to light correctly. This means FORGET VIDEO. What I mean is, get a 35mm still camera, a bunch of film, some books and magazines on photography and emerse yourself in that world for as long as you can, because that's really the only way you're going to learn proper lighting.

3. With Super 8, you need much more wattage to get good, sharp, not-grainy images, so start building a good lighting package. Don't use shop lights. They're way too orange.

4. Learn proper shooting technique. What I mean is, read books or whatever, on proper shooting for continuity, not crossing the line of action, shooting masters, medium shots, CU's and what's appropriate for certain feelings and emotions, etc. Remember, it's the STORY that matters, so everything must serve the story. Nobody gives a rat's butthair how clever your shooting is, it has to mean something in relation to the emotion the characters are going through.

5. Shoot lots of close ups. In Super 8, the small image size = less sharpness, more grain, so you need to shoot much closer up for it to look professional. Anything further than around 8 feet from the camera starts looking soft & chunky, even with Kodachrome 40.


Matt Pacini

[technicolour]

Matt,

Thanks for your reply, I have much experience with SLR cameras, as ive taken photography at college and learnt how to print, light photographs etc.

I intened to get another camera over the holidays with a folding pistol grip and remote socket, as I have a large camera with a pistol grip which doesnt fold. This is unsuitable for use with a tripod as the centre of gravity is messed up and it weighs the tripod down heavily.

There are lots of books at my college libaray, I guess some of those will be of help

[StopMoWorks]

I am not an expert like others on this forum but what about the final release format of the Super8 film? Will it be transferred to video, vcd or dvd? What I am trying to get at, is, if you are going to actually project Super8....just handling it, in addition to using the old cut/splice method of editing, will introduce dust, scratches & other artifacts onto the film.....might look interesting for a very exaggerated film look quality, but it will look very amatuerish no matter how well you shot the film. Never projecting the "original" and going straight from camera to computer (via a film to digital transfer) would give the cleanest finished Super8 product, for release on other distribution mediums.

[technicolour]

That is a good point, but part of the learning how to film like a "pro" is cleaning and looking after your film properly. Im still learning how to film and experimenting but i hope to make some small movies later on but id quite like to do this with just film and a splicer, as i have no video editing facilites.

[JIM DUNN]

Sounds to me like you're ready, Jim. Pick your favorite VERY simple film idea, get a couple people together---only the ones you really need---load a cartridge in your camera and go out and shoot it, have it processed, project it and decide how you want to cut it, then cut it, and project it again. Now, you're watching your own movie and getting ideas about what to do and what not in your next one. Poof, you're a filmmaker! Many people become carpenters by building houses.

[technicolour]

Thanks for all the advice and encouragement guys

However this brings me to my second thought, tape or cement splicers!!?? I know where I can get both at reasnoble prices but which ones preferable? I undertand this is a matter of opinion with a lot of you but Im talking in terms of cost, practicallity and ease of appilcation!

thanks again [img]graemlins/film.gif[/img]

[JIM DUNN]

You may get lots of opinions , but I'm with Mr. Brantley on this one....Guillotine type, CIRO brand, hands down, no questions, period. See his page: http://www.super8filmmaking.com/s8edit.htm

[technicolour]

What about the Hama tape splicer?

The CIRO ones that I have been able to find are a bit out of my price range! (?100 or so!)

Just out of interest, can you use general purpose film cleaner in a spray can for cine film?